The Day After the Walk Before

Yesterday we got wet. It had to happen I guess having enjoyed unseasonably warm and bright weather;1 we were heading to Santiago, the city of rain. It rained from the moment we started out at about 0930 to when we arrived at the Cathedral at around 4.00 pm. It was 19 km to the city but we hadn't allowed for the extra long walk to the reach St James' rest place. We walked 22 kms; we arrived wet and weary but uplifted by our sense of achievement  - and the thought of a hot shower, dry clothes and a beer. 

Santiago is old and new, a mix of grey historic, catholic buildings and narrow, stone streets in the old city surrounded by white dwellings with orange roofs further out then industrial sites and modern arterial roads. The cathedral might have looked better in the sunshine but, somehow, the somber, misty dampness was appropriate both to our mood and our surrounds. We would recover quickly as we did each day after washing, resting, eating and drinking.

Some peregrinos had walked much further than us to reach the cathedral - some 750 to our 115 km but whatever their reason or ours we were all pilgrims together at the end we had satisfied our own personal aims.  

So we made it and we were happy.

The best and the worst of it

Best bit..... Quality time with favourite people

Funniest bit..... Seeing the man who thought he was a tram

Hardest bit.... The crusts of the bread

Worst bit...... Pain in my knee

Tastiest bit..... Santiago cake

Memorable bits..... Local gin, blessing by the priest on the side of the road, collecting the stamps in the passport

Most memorable bit.... The paths, tracks and roads - the way! 

Whoever invented GoreTex is a fibber!

I think I discovered a new phenomenon today. Trouser drag! Sadly the long expected but thus far avoided rain finally caught up with us overnight so this morning we reluctantly went for the 'designer plastic look' (see delightful photos below). Now the thing about waterproofs is that they lie! That's to say they pretend to stop you from getting wet but in fact not only do they gradually let water in by devious means but they also make you so hot that before long you're as soggy from the inside as you are from without. Secondly, wherever they end (jacket just below the waist, trousers round your boots) the water simply rolls off and sneakily seeps in, not content with making the wearer look a total numpty but defying all attempts on their part to stay dry. And another thing ... With the rain today came the wind and hence my scientific discovery. When you find yourself clad head to foot in fabric designed to keep the draughts out and roomy enough to go over your normal gear you realise that your surface area is significantly increased - see photo 2 as I demonstrate. And thus, in imitation of black and blue sails, every step required additional force to propel these weary pilgrims forward and thus, with leaden legs, soggy socks, walnut-wrinkled feet and STILL soaked to the skin .... we arrived! 

Somewhat disappointingly there was no fanfare, and not even a 'you made it' marker but we did it and have the certificate to prove it. Happy, weary and proud of our efforts you'll excuse me if I stop there. A celebratory meal and a glass or two beckon. 

Looking tired and still only just on the outskirts of the city

Trouser drag

Just a fraction of our stamped 'credential' to prove we walked all the way.

My Compostella

The End! 

Made it

We got to the end after a long slog through the rain. It rained incessantly from when we left the hotel in Rua at 9.00 through to when we got to Santiago de Compostella at 4.00ish. The last time I was that wet when fully clothed was when I did my life saving exams! 

But we made it in one piece with only a reasonable breakfast, a little soup at lunchtime, several coffees and a brandy to sustain us! Oh and a couple of bars and a drop or two of rescue remedy! 

Now the proud owners of our certificates we can rest on our laurels for a bit, safe in the knowledge that long distance walking isn't so hard after all! Who am I kidding! 

Everywhere is within walking distance if you have the time! 

Thank you David, Rachael and Stephen for coming with me. 

Day 6 - A Rua to Santiago

We have around 19 km left on the final stage of our walk to Santiago de Compostella. The fist part should be on paths and quiet roads but we anticipate walking alongside busier roads as we approach the capital of Galacia with a fair old climb up to Monte Gozo along the way. Rain is forecast.

My main memories from yesterday were the eucalyptus trees.

Ode to Amanda

Amanda is my buddy

Amanda is my friend

She's a motivating influence 

On whom I can depend

Amanda is my buddy

Amanda is my pal

She's positive and 'cup half full'

A most uplifting gal

Amanda is my buddy

Amanda is my mate

She's smart and kind and thoughtful

And we laugh a lot. It's great.

We think alike in many ways

Enjoy a gin or two

We share so many values

That we SHOULD be friends, it's true

BUT...

Though Amanda loves a new idea

Into which she catapults 

Amanda's not a 'finisher'

Her focus ain't results 

And that's where we two differ

(She knows this drives me round the bend)

But believe me she will finish THIS

If I must DRAG her to the end! 

Last but one

Last night we had supper in a warm and welcoming place run by a couple of ladies. Advertising outside promised a home made vegetarian meal. Venturing in we met Chris and Ollie from Ireland. Chris was doing the Camino because she wanted to join Ollie who had done two lots of it before and was on the last leg. Not sure what Ollie's motivation was! 

They didn't reckon the food was that great, but I thought it was simple and filling and rustic! 

Today we walked for a little way this morning with two couples who were travelling together. The Salvation Army was their common thread altho one pair were from Manchester and the other from the US. I walked alongside Margaret, married to Chick and they were the Brits. Margaret told me about a local charity close to her heart called Just Life. She and her husband are 66 and their friends Phil and Keitha are 72. Puts my 57 to shame! 

Struggled with my good knee today on the downward slopes but got here! 

Only 19kms to go and I am sure I will survive to tell the tale unlike some who have travelled before me!