Stick Ticking and Other Audibles

Our first day's walking is done. I feel a contented sense of satisfaction that we are truly now 'pelegrinos' as I stretch out, tummy full (again) and with muscles and joints that know we have covered 22Km today, in our cosy Spanish hotel to sleep my way into Friday. 

The day dawned bright but blanketed in a heavy mist that took until late morning to burn off. It was perfect walking weather - we were cool on the outside but toasty-warm from within - and as we left Sarria the numerous pilgrims each soon found their own pace, spread out and settled to our quiet contemplations I found myself conscious of the simple sounds of this countryside - first the buzzing of chain saws, then the song of invisible native birds (often heard but never seen), the occasional ting of a cycle bell warning us of its imminent passing, a cockerel crowing up ahead or the international chatter of friends in their twos and threes. But the sound that punctuates the whole walk is the gentle 'ticking' of sticks. Walking poles are used by many pilgrims to ease ascents and descents and in between times provide an unforgettable rhythmic accompaniment to the crunch of boots on gravel. 

Today we also encountered a herd of cows being noisily rounded up by a small but fierce Spanish lady and her equally vociferous dog, the thump of our first stamps on our 'credential' (walkers 'passport') and the small celebrations of pilgrims passing the '100Km to Santiago' marker. Hooray! Onwards and upwards.

Stephen and Alfonso IX. Which one looks happier? 

Fierce shepherdess who broke her stick thwacking a reluctant ruminant 

The dazzlingly daubed marker signalling only 100Km more to go - a joy to us, never mind to those who had already covered several hundred more!